Saturday, December 19, 2009

Death on the sidelines

Ralph Bartholdt photo

Wayne Christensen, 67, of Coeur d'Alene died Dec. 6.


He had one of those lives you read about in paperback novels left at the laundromat.
The pages are dog-eared, the covers are creased and the dryer with your clothes is going kalump-kalump as you watch the clock above the detergent dispenser tick.
He died the same way.
When he came to North Idaho, Wayne Christensen joined the cadre of the faceless and rumpled in the greater Coeur d'Alene area whose past, to those without one, is scattered like cigarette butts and fast-food wrappers along the Interstate.
He had worked most of his life in the Del Monte plants of the Midwest, packing and shuffling boxes of vegetables, canned and uncanned, to and from warehouses, into and out of containers, the steam rooms and plastic gloves, the electric hum of forklifts falling away like punched time cards and paycheck stubs stashed in business envelopes under the seats of used car-lot sedans. The dust in the light that broke through the sliding warehouse doors enveloped sunrises and sunsets.
The Faribault, Minnesota native worked the turkey farms too, from Buffalo to Thief River Falls and farther west, the stench and dust of turkey shit, pin feathers and effluvium dimmed the fluorescent lights in the barns, and caked his lungs.
He moved on to Texas for a job at WalMart in the years before coming north to a place that resembled his home state: blue lakes, green trees and lots of fishing holes.
He liked fishing the most.
Bait and panfish, Zebco rods and reels and a bottle of something to make it all shimmer like long ago.
I am making this up.
I talked with Wayne for a while last year and took his picture. He told me about growing up Minnesota, and the turkey farms.
The rest is from people who took him in: John and Mary, who met Wayne 5 years ago at Cherished One's Ministry soup kitchen a block off Sherman Avenue in downtown Coeur d'Alene, a town known for its politics of tourism and golf.
And its newspaper magnate and the things that the newspaper brings.
Black and white mostly.
Hotels and magazine covers.
Squeaky clean.
"He was going from jungle to jungle, bush to bush," said John, a 65-year-old former maintenance man and alcoholic, who along with his wife Mary helped Wayne get medical help and an apartment in town. "We had to establish a relationship."
Even though Wayne had enamored himself to John, the retired maintenance man with the Santa Claus beard, plethora of tattoos and a voice scarred by cigarettes had been sober for 30-plus years. John didn't want to be around a drunk and he told it to Wayne.
"I said to him, listen, I want to be your friend, but I've been clean and sober for 36 years," John said. "I like you, but I can't handle you being drunk."
John and Mary became Wayne's friends.
They helped him out.
"Nobody takes care of the homeless, better than the homeless," Patty McGruder, a health care specialist for area homeless people said. "They are a family of their own."
She heard of Wayne's death almost 3 weeks after the fact.
Another man named Harley, who lived on the street, died this week.
Belated news isn't unusual, McGruder said.
Because of their transient lives, area homeless people, and others in the same circle of poverty and bereftitude, are often not missed for a while and when the word spreads of a death, it is with stutter steps. The news is often kept under wraps like a solemn soliloquy.
"I have many people who are not afraid of dying," she said. "What they don't want is to die alone...in a car...there is no dignity in that."
Wayne died at the Circle of Life, a hospice for the terminally ill.
"We went in and prayed over him," Mary said. "He didn't wake up. He just mumbled."
They went back the next day to check him. A few hours later he was dead.
"We used to have morning b.s. sessions," at the apartments where they lived, said John.
One day Wayne had a coughing jag that wouldn't quit.
"He wouldn't stop smoking, or drinking," John said.
He and his wife decided they would continue to help Wayne with food, and medical help -- they got him enrolled in Social Security, the only income he had -- but they would no longer be party to his destructive habits.
"We're not going to sit here and watch you kill yourself," John said.
So, they did all they could to assist him, visited him regularly, laughed at his jokes and hugged him when he needed it, but they weren't constantly at his side.
They didn't know he was dying until Hospice showed up at his door.
"We told him, whatever you need, we're there for you," John said.
He and Mary, who were named executors of his estate, plan to spread his ashes at a fishing hole.
That is what Wayne wanted, Mary said.
As for the estate, there isn't one.
"Most of what he had, he got at St. Vincent's," said John. "We will just give it back to them."
The couple plan to move to Bonner's Ferry by spring and will take Wayne's ashes with them.
"We will spread him out," Mary said.
She plans to find fishing holes in the Selkirks and in the Bitterroot Mountains that Wayne would like.
"That's what he wanted," she said.
The county paid for his cremation. His family, including an ex-wife and four children broke ties more than 30 years ago, she said.
"I don't know why."
Wayne had a sense of humor, Mary will tell you. He was hilarious. He loved taking his social security check and going to the casino. On the way there, he would sit in the back seat and mimic a child. "Are we there yet?"
He won $4,000 last fall.

Ralph Bartholdt


Flashlight vigil for area homeless is Monday evening

Homelessness is no longer against the law in Kootenai County.
Patty McGruder, a health care outreach provider for area homeless is elated.
She made the announcement at a local soup kitchen last week.
A flashlight vigil is set Monday evening, Dec. 21, at 6 p.m. at the old Coeur d'Alene library at 1st and Harrison.
It is a breakthrough because for years the city wouldn't recognize the homeless problem. With the vigil, which encourages local businesses, vendors and residents to donate flashlights for homeless people, the city is acknowledging a growing problem.
"We're getting a lot of community support," McGruder said. "This makes homelessness legal in Coeur d'Alene."
Everyone is welcome to attend the event, and to bring and donate flashlights. -- Ralph Bartholdt


Wayne Christensen's story, and the stories and photos of others who take part in the community's soup kitchens and help programs, are part of an exhibit set Jan. 15 at the Human Rights Education Institute.

Friday, December 11, 2009

Hard water and rooster tails


Photographs by Ralph Bartholdt/Skookum Photography

Ice skaters leave their mark on a Panhandle lake as the sun sets bringing colder temperatures, and likely, more ice.




A rock used to test the ice, is lodged in the surface of a Panhandle lake.






A good jumping off point. Dock. Ice. Idaho Panhandle.


George Lindley said it was like the time in Vietnam when he was caught with his pants down in a mine field.
Lindley was a tall man who after decades of slumping along with a fisheries biology degree was working on a Master's. He was the student in the lab coat in a class of flannel shirts and obscene logos. He was the guy who was 20 years older than the rest of the class with fading hair and a bullox nose under horn rimmed glasses.
As if to tell everyone that he was a little bleary of his status in this thing we called life, he walked with a slouch that you could put a coffee cup on.
And his shoes were 14 double wide.
In Vietnam he had been in the intelligence corps. He had studied dialects of the native language, but when he was called to duty he spoke mostly in French.
It was there that one night after a series of bluster and back slapping rounds of rot gut with the guys who carried the bandoliers he found himself gurgling.
His gut rumbled, his head ached and he felt that surge of two moons colliding somewhere in his solar plexis. He stretched his long legs and made marks in the clay dirt under a sickle moon with his big boots and spent, he said, several hours producing strange noises with his backside until all sounds ceased, and something he called "ricewater stools," stopped.
A slick of light from a rising sun marked his position.
He had left the wire of course in this backwood zone where nothing ever happened, but to his dismay, he realized that he had also left the path.
He had spent 3 hours crapping in a mine field.
As a man with a secondary degree, and, he admitted, less sense than the guy humping the Saw in the muck, he casually zipped up.
Then ran like hell.
He made it back inside the encampment without incident and told himself that next time, if there was one, he would do what he learned in basics: stab the ground and carefully extract himself from the bouncing betties so as not to leave any of his own body parts behind.
George told me this story one day in the aseptic offices of a university where he was a TA working on the advanced biology degree.
He told me this in light of a conversation about ice fishing.
He loved fishing of all kinds and never missed an opportunity.
So one morning after 3 days of hard cold he was set.
The ice that morning was solid. No snow, he said. Four inches thick at least, and although he liked more he could no longer stand the wait and ventured out early as the mercury clicked zero and the sound of his footfalls cracked cold on the dirt.
He was after spiny rays: perch, crappies and the like and he loaded his bucket with gear and put a maggot in his lip like a chaw of snoose. Away he went.
Oh boy, out there on that lake he was slaying the buggers. Pulling and tossing the fish on the ice where they froze hard and other anglers came out too, and gathered around, drilling holes with shovel or swirly augers with Swedish names and everyone was killing the pannies, as the sun came up and George, the penultimate fisheries man was catching them like it was no one's business.
Somewhere between his second and third sandwich and the the last drip of cocoa from his thermos, with the sun high and him in a T-shirt now, he heard a thump.
There was water at his feet.
Ha ha, he thought. What a day.
He looked around and realized he was the only person left on the ice.
He peered toward shore and saw a pickup, the last one in the parking lot besides his beater Ford, totter up the road.
He heard a cracking. A sort of boom and saw water rushing over the lake's surface toward him and then the ice underneath sort of slumped.
It had been at least 20 years since the mine field incident, but at that moment, like thick gravy slowly ambling over mashed potatoes on a potluck plate, it all came back.
George carefully raised himself from the 5-gallon bucket where he sat. He gingerly reached down for the frozen fish that were now floating in 3 inches of water, plopping them into his bucket as if his trial was near and he was adjusting his tie.
He achingly reeled in his lines and placed the poles into the bucket too and he remembered what he told himself those many years ago in that encampment not so far from Saigon as the sun rose and moon slipped into a pink morning:
Keep calm. Use your head and your common sense.
Then, holding the bucket full of dead fish and gear in one hand and his empty thermos and auger in the other, he ran like hell.
As he told the tale I could see this man, all 6-5 of him, dressed heavily in boots, and three layers of thermal gear wrapped around his waist like a tennis star, ungulate legs, shoulders perpetually slumped and the horn rimmed glasses bobbing on a bulbous nose, leaving a rooster tail of water as he, once again, ran for cover.
I learned a lot from George.
He was my TA.
Of all the book learning and field work though, there is one thing I won't forget:
The image of this large man running lonely for his life on a small lake of ice and the notion that hardwater won't stay hard.
Not forever.
This story always knocks around in me this time of year.
Ralph Bartholdt





Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Santa in Spirit Lake this week

Photo by Ralph Bartholdt/Skookum
Carol Stepes relishes a homemade glob of mint chocolate chip ice cream at Spirit Lake Books & Coffee as owner Jon Zucker looks on.

Santa will spend a couple days in Spirit Lake this week.
The old guy in the red suit will be at 4th & Maine, the local pizzeria, Dec. 11 at 1:30 and he'll saunter over to Spirit Lake Books & Coffee the following day from 1 to 3 p.m.
Jon Zucker at Spirit Lake Books plans to serve free food when Santa's around on the 12th.
Today, Zucker, a New Yorker who talks with his hands and who got a hearing aid recently because several years of listening to soft spoken people in North Idaho strained his New York eardrums, has the ear of a couple patrons.
Carol Stepes of Delores, Colorado, stopped in with friend Lee Underkofler of Blanchard for some home made ice cream.
It's seasonal: mint chocolate chip.
"It's out of this world," Stepes said.
Making the cold stuff is a three-day process, Terri Zucker, Jon's wife says. The ice cream was added to the menu recently and the book store and eatery partnered with Spirit Creek Catering Company, a local caterer who will use the book seller's facility when it's warranted.
Terri's done baking today -- the store serves scones, bagels, cookies and other hand crafted baked goods. She's tidying up and filling orders.
A man I met in Bonners Ferry last week told me he'd travel all the way to Spirit Lake for a bagel, because they are just that good.
I stopped in to test the statement and found he was right.
But the conversation here isn't about bagels, instead Zucker is lauding New York Chinese food and using his hands to explain its value to the two customers who agree. They prefer Szechuan, they say, and the conversation finds a new thread.
In a tight economy, and the off-season, places like this Spirit Lake business are stretching their resources as they diversify to net more customers.
"Before we started this business, we knew the economy was going to be up and down," Zucker says. "We have a business plan and we hope it works. We try to plan for everything."
He's also making websites for other area businesses for $150 a pop.
The home-made ice cream was added recently. Home made cafe pizzas didn't pan out at first, but they are back on the menu. Terri, who insists on making everything from scratch, refuses to make soup.
"Don't even say it," she says.
So, I don't.
I might bring the kids by for a taste of the fare, though, and to see Santa.
He was in Athol last week.
That tells me something:
He must like it here.

Ralph Bartholdt

Friday, November 20, 2009

Gun for Christmas, and other paper targets (Writings 2000-2007)

From Tea with former officers of the Saddam's Iraqi army by Ralph Bartholdt/Skookum Photography

Gun for Christmas

All I want for Christmas is a .45
Nope, not a lawn mower.
No thanks on the three-foot long chrome spatula, the chef's hat and white apron that comes with a gas-fired barbecue.
I'll pass on the fleece seat covers and the How-To Home Gardening library.
Thanks, Santa, but no thanks.
I want a gun for Christmas.
A 1911 type .45 caliber pistol.
The kind that fits easily into my hand because the grip is not too wide and not too thin.
I want a blue version, not those shiny, coated types that repel rust. They look too new. I want mine to at least resemble the side arms used by U.S. officers from the bombed streets of Sicily to the shores of Subic Bay.
Give it pearl handles, and you have something akin to the pistol General George Patton used when he stood misty eyed at Carthage where, two thousand years earlier, Hannibal had begun his campaign against the Legions of Rome.
It would be the same type that Ray LeFebvre of Bonners Ferry wore when he was riddled with enemy bullets in the Ia Drang Valley and similar to the sidearm strapped to a young major named Schwartzkopf as he led troops in the central highlands of Vietnam more than 40 years ago.
These men were, each in their quests, said to be upholding democracy: The right to make policy by casting a vote. The right to be heard at the ballot box.
Each risked their lives for a shining experiment in government; the least diluted form.
It consists of direct representation of the people's will in the echoing halls of Congress.
I don't think, Santa, that lawyers are supposed to be part of that equation.
But, there they are, and it, coming on Christmas.
Last week, our hallowed government sent a message to the people.
Your vote doesn't really matter, the message said.
And so, at voter's expense, the White House hired a limousine-fleet of attorneys to help sue firearms makers because Congress, at the request of the people, refused to hold gun manufacturers responsible for the actions of less than one percent of the population who annually do dumb things with firearms.
But, like I say, Santa, I just want a gun.
No thanks on the case of Scotch, or the box of Northwest wine nestled in wood wool. A new set of wheels? A Maserati? Nah.
I just want a gun.
A historical piece, Santa. Bring me a double action .45 that I can keep near my wrinkled and framed version of the Constitution.
Real relics, those. As are you, St. Nick.
As are you.
(2000)

Jewelry in the hen house
(run boy run)

Ruby and topaz lace, emerald frizzle, gold bars.
She collects chickens like other women take to jewelry.
It's not a bad thing, I think.
I bought an Auricana rooster for her birthday and will probably splurge during the Holidays. The hatchery catalog has been open to page 21 in a conspicuous manner for several weeks, so I'm saving for a clutch of Ancona eggs.
The breed is rare in the U.S. according to the catalog people and can fare well on scanty rations. They attack owls and feed on coyotes, so they should fit right in at our seven-acre poultry patch in predator holler.
Just for the heck of it - some say I'm just romantic - I dropped several dollars for a few Wyandottes. They are good, medium-weight fowl for small family flocks kept under rugged conditions, according to the official description in the poultry handlers guide - a small magazine the little woman keeps under her pillow.
Their combs do not freeze as easily as single combs and the hens make good mothers.
Sound nice? Read on.
Their good disposition, attractive curves and many color patterns make them a good choice for fanciers and farmers alike, the guide says.
"What was that breed again? Wyandottes, yeah that's it," I told the person in Georgia who raises the variety and ships chickens of all ages and in various stages of health to 4-H members and farmers throughout the U.S.
"How come you want these?" The chicken man asked. "Don't you already have enough chickens?"
The telephone line crackled like a boot on a pile of layer pellets.
I couldn't understand his interrogation until I learned he was an engineer who took to raising chickens at the behest of his wife who left her job as an account executive because of a blue Andalusian.
"Watch out," he said. "The passion for fowl can turn ugly."
His paranoia made me smile.
That was last year, well before our Auricanas laid hundreds of blue, pink and green eggs the color of pond water.
Before we got the barred rocks and the silver leghorns that guard the woodshed like yellow-eyed banshees.
And, come to think of it, before my daughters started waking up in the middle of the night and rising from their feather beds to pull on my fingers with the words, "Daddy can you go out and check the chickens, I think I heard Rudy (their favorite rooster) fuss."
I usually rise then and lumber into the starless night with the back flap of my union suit open for air, and a 16-gauge single shot poking the misty night like a cow prod.
I check the pens and inhale the odoriferous stew of chicken dung, food and feathers before I come back in and flop into bed to dreams of drumsticks and gravy.
Twice there have been raccoons, but they were denied.
The guy from Georgia might have a point.
This passion for Minorcas and Orpingtons seems a bit colorful. But ugly?
I ponder that as I scrape the chicken dip from my Sunday shoes.
There's a good reason for preferring poultry to say, gowns and diamond earrings.
My neighbor said it:
"I don't like chickens," he mused. "Every time I walk into the coop, they tell me what I am.
"Cheap, cheap, cheap."
(2002)

Ted Turner and Werner: only their names sound alike

Werner Krautham was a socialist.
I met him one winter night in the university district in Munich where I was supposed to be going to college, but had discovered something better than college.
It came in frothy mugs in smoky rooms with low ceilings and was served by large mustachioed women who, despite doubling as bouncers, were dainty in the same way that truck transmissions are sweet.
Werner sat alone at one of the few tables in an establishment that had mostly wooden booths made when Napoleon was a boy.
I sat with him because there was no place else to sit since a lot of other university students in Munich at the time had discovered the same thing I fancied, and because he looked like a good fellow, and he had a small dog on a leash.
He and his dog were old.
Werner wore a beret.
His dog had a beard.
Werner, I later learned, drank one pint of beer each weekday afternoon while seated at the same table at about the same time, which depended mostly on the regularity of the dog.
He drank a glass of cognac on Saturday. Sunday, he abstained.
His one-day abstinence he attributed to his wife, who traded her socialism for church on Sundays and frowned upon his drinking on the Sabbath.
Werner respected his wife's wishes although she had died years ago.
They had been teachers during Hilter's putsch - and had been blacklisted because neither would serve in the Fuehrer's military, Werner told me.
I believed him. Still do.
After the overthrow of the German government, his picture had hung on a wall near the Odeon's Platz where Hitler had rallied the masses. His mug shot was one of hundreds on a placard: men and women labeled as enemies of the state. They weren't given work. They were outcasts.
More than 40 years later, he spoke of those days with no bitterness. He had dug potatoes, scraped bricks, swept floors, and gotten by, he said. It wasn't easy. Nothing ever is, he said. He and his wife had feared for their lives at times. Sometimes, while seated at home listening to the contraband radio, supping a bowl of cabbage soup, they thought they heard Hitler's black coats coming for them.
For safety reasons he and his wife separated during the war, but were later reunited. They had no children.
When I met Werner, he took me in, so to speak.
I would sometimes meet him at the same tavern and sit at his table because it was the only spot available and I would drink beer and he drank a beer very slowly.
Once, I walked with him through the streets and he pointed out landmarks, our breath trailed like the smoke from bismuth burners.
He lived in the same small apartment that he and his wife rented after the Allies freed Europe.
Just he and his terrier.
No yachts, which is unusual, perhaps, for a socialist. No million-acre ranches. No frivolities such as inbred buffalo.
Just himself, a bearded dog and those black and white photographs of him as a school teacher and his beautiful wife who had aged gracefully.
I wonder what Werner would have added to Ted Turner's recent attempt to ennoble himself to the socialist crowd.
I wonder if Werner heard it when Mr. Turner, one of the world's richest men, and a leading private land owner in the U.S., told a gathering at Shanghai that he is "a socialist at heart."
Mr. Turner said he was concerned that internet entrepreneurs were getting rich too fast.
Werner may have seen the report on a vast flickering screen beaming from above a bar, foyer or bathroom stall. The blue screens are becoming the scourge of this society as they send skittish light across the universe and make millions of dollars every day for people like Mr. Turner.
Werner probably wouldn't have shown ire or disbelief: the two most common reactions when faced with facades.
His routine of moderation wouldn't have been upset, I don't think.
True convictions are lifelong endeavors, after all, and not subject to frivolous whims of empire.
(2001)


Kevlar, K-bar and combat loss

The face of the Marine in the Kuwait airport was the color of nutmeg; a red tinge from the desert sun streaked his neck.
He asked me if I wanted to throw my luggage on the cart that carried his seabags, a faded flak vest and his Kevlar helmet, its dust cover torn and the edges frayed.
He had been in Fallujah for seven months including the time in April when his unit suffered casualties at the hands of insurgents who made what at the time seemed a last ditch attack there, and he was headed home to Camp Pendleton, one of many Marines and soldiers looking forward to time in the rear.
I was leaving too and gingerly made my way toward the metal detectors where the Kuwaiti officials scanned my bags. They discovered a Victorinox pocketknife in my carry-on luggage.
My bad.
They asked me what I planned to do with this vile multi-bladed tool with a white cross on the handle, and considered among themselves if I was the kind of person who might take on, in the name of Allah, a planeload of service members with the shiny 3-inch blade, can opener and screwdriver set.
They dropped my utility knife in a box behind the counter and waved me on.
When I turned to the Marine he grimaced as Kuwaiti officials removed one at a time a half dozen M16 magazines from one of his bags and held them up accusingly.
"I'm in the Marine Corps," he told them through his teeth as if it wasn't already painfully obvious.
After the officials confiscated the same magazines the young man had carried with him for many months in the Al Anbar province - a few hunks of metal and springs that had become as dear to him, and as important, as the Camelbacks he had stuffed into his luggage - the young man, all of 22, turned to me and said, "chalk it off as a combat loss."
Then, with a grin, "at least they didn't find my Ka-bars," referring to the combat knives he hid in his luggage.
I wondered what kind of reception he would get in the refined world of the Amsterdam airport where so many nice Europeans in suits and non-wrinkle casual wear would espy this kid packing his carry-on luggage - a combat tested flak vest and Kevlar helmet dangling like so many chickens in an Iraqi market. And I realized he didn't give a sideways hoot what any of them thought.
The gear was a badge of his time served in a desert country hot as a fry pan, with a duty to restore a semblance of order to a people who, at least a few, seemed to thrive on disorder - or an order of their own making.
In Amsterdam, he shook my hand and said goodbye and I was left with a notion of gratitude to have been allowed to follow a tribe of men and women like this kid who held their service in arms above anything they might achieve in the material world.
People have asked me about the morale of the troops in Iraq.
"Is it low, as they say in the news?" they ask.
What comes to me is this.
"When Marines complain, it's normal. It's when they quit complaining that you have to worry."
A first sergeant with the eagle, globe and anchor on his digital cammy desert hat told me that. There was a slick of sweat on his face as we stood for a spell in the shade of a tree with leaves like leather while waiting for a helo to thump thump us across miles of sand to places where other armed men and women wearing globes and anchors waited for us with their heads high, but tucked low under the sand bags.
If what he said is true, then there is no need to worry about the mindset of the young Marines humping their gear, Kabars, Camelbacks, flak, helmet and rifle and the multitude of extra magazines, through the heat of the high sun.
There's plenty of grousing going on, usually followed by the standard line of grins. And there's dreaming too of homes and families and bass fishing on a lake somewhere far from the heat of Iraqi desert.
All of which means, according to the first sergeant at least, that the morale of the troops in Iraq is pretty much the same as anywhere else.
It's not much of a headline, but it's a good thing to take home.
(2004)


Tea with former officers
of the Saddam's Iraqi army

Officers of the former Iraqi army sit on their cots in a small adobe-like hut with heavy drapes on the windows and a television blinking in the corner of the single-room building.
Outside the other men, former soldiers in the Iraqi army, smile from under the shermaghs - colorful scarves wrapped around their heads - as they squat in the shade on the cement of what is their new barracks
It is a spartan place of bunks, dressers, darkness and little else.
Cigarette butts freckle the tile floor.
But, next door, these former officers sit on their beds in their separate quarters and look glum as if someone has thrown a bucket of dirty water on them.
Outside the hot wind gusts and stops, swirls dust and sets it back down.
The former officers are dejected sitting there. One wears an olive green camouflage uniform with two stars on the epaulets; the others are attired in civilian clothing, sandals, and pant legs rolled up to parry the heat.
Under Saddam, these men had been unit commanders. They may have lived in flourishing suburbs with porcelain and gold plates, were respected as men to be reckoned with.
Their present job, as security forces on a small outlying coalition base in the desert, doesn't bestow them with the kind of prestige they once knew.
Working for the coalition has put their families in jeopardy, they say. It has made them targets of insurgents.
They hail from a city north of Baghdad and regularly travel the many hours between this outpost and home to care for their families.
Their words come second-hand through an interpreter, a young man with a beard whose father was a prominent minister during the Hussein regime, but he isn't a reliable go-to guy.
A Marine - call him Dan - dressed in a T-shirt and khaki cargo pants with a Beretta strapped to his leg, explains this about the interpreter.
Dan speaks Arabic like people in the Midwest speak Louisiana swamp dialect. He understands some and can reply, but his forte is Russian, so conversational Arabic is a little beyond his grasp.
The interpreter, Arthur, was born in Britain and has come to Iraq for a piece of the pie, Dan says.
Arthur would like to raise a militia and grab some power in the Al Anbar Province.
The man is full of spin, says Dan, whose job requires him to interview, with his rudimentary language skills, Iraqis by the thousands.
He uses interpreters as he gathers information on insurgents and tests the waters of popular opinion. It's how he finds reliable workers among the myriads of former Iraqi soldiers and civilians who are jobless since the fall of the Hussein regime.
Arthur's way of interpreting is a source of contention, Dan says.
So some of what a Marine major seated quietly among the former Iraqi officers asks, or tells them, is sifted through Arthur's own world view and who knows how it comes out at the other end.
When we arrived here with a small convoy loaded with boxes of accoutrements (everything from soccer balls and sunscreen, to towels, shoes and plastic toys) sent by American families for the wives and children of these former soldiers and officers as tidings of friendship, the former regular Iraqi army men greeted us with cigarettes.
"Miami," an older gentleman in a baggy battle dress uniform and a face as tanned as saddle leather, said.
It is a brand of smokes.
From a baby-blue packet he slowly handed the cigarettes one at a time, gesturing lazily, almost graciously to the grunts. He lit each end meticulously with a plastic, butane lighter, and the Marines, many of them whose lips were packed with snoose, took puffs as the man watched the gift he gave disappear slowly at the end of the Marines' fingers.
"It's kind of traditional," said a corporal, who prefers a pipe and a special blend of tobacco sent from his wife in Missouri. He puffed and blew the cigarette smoke that billowed off in a gust of dusty wind.
The former regular Iraqi army soldiers crowded around making conversation and the Marines answered and asked, not expecting a glimmer of recognition either way.
Inside the cool room of the officer quarters, sweet tea in small, cylindrical cups is passed around on saucers.
The former-Iraqi officers want weapons. They want more money. They want to have power returned to them.
The Marine Corps major, a burly man with a face like a sweet pea, has heard this story before.
Dan is seated on one of the beds and listens.
The former Iraqi officers concede that things are better now than in the months after the regime fell. They are being paid as much working for a security company called Ramadan as they had been under Saddam, but prices have gone up, they say. They aren't given the extra allowances of food they were accustomed to and there is the matter of keeping their families safe.
"With Saddam we used to have security," they say, through Arthur, who sits between the major and the officers. "Our families were safe.
"Now there is no security."
They are solemn. Their brows furrowed.
Put the army back to work, the former officers say, and we will restore security.
One of the Marines tells them that thousands of former Iraqi army officers have been given jobs as policemen, and as soldiers in the new army, but it will take more than the military to restore order here.
"It will take everybody," the Marine major says.
As if the statement is the annoying buzz of a fly in the sullen air of the dark room where a silenced television blinks, the former officers swat the air and shake their heads.
In the old system, at least 1,500 officers were stationed in each province to provide security and quell unrest, says a former officer with the two stars on his epaulets. That system has been dismantled; that's why there is chaos.
The Marine major explains that there must be a balance between the military and the civilian population, between officers, soldiers and small business people. There must be more opportunity for Iraqis than a career as a warrior.
For two hours, as tea and cigarettes are passed around again, the conversation repeats itself.
The major explains that if the former officers want a better paying job they should seek it out, or use what they know to help rebuild Iraq.
The major, a Marine Corps reservist, says he uses his military training in the civilian world to raise a family that includes four children.
"We know about democracy," one of the former officers says with a stiff jaw. "We are different."
Outside, the NCOs have unpacked some of the gifts, handing out soccer balls to a dozen former regular Iraqi soldiers who eye the checked balls and grin.
A Marine Corps staff sergeant kicks one of the balls across a road to a former regular soldier, but it is a high kick and the wind grabs the ball careening it into the dusty desert and making it tumble out past the adobe houses toward the concertina wire.
The sun is blistering and high in a watery sky.
The ball rolls and zigs back and forth.
The soldier scrambles after it.



Dogs like fine wine

I'm near the beginning of a story. It's Charley Waterman and he's hunting wood ducks in a Florida swamp.
He walks quietly through the half-light of Spanish moss and cypress. His boots make rings in the inches-deep water. Squinting ahead, he tries to locate the birds responsible for the singsong conversation and soft gabbling. He hopes to espy the silver ripples that tell the wood ducks' location.
I imagine Waterman with a dog at his heels, its ears perked, the two almost invisible in the shadowy murk.
Then there is a scream.
Turning I see my daughter's claw-hold on the face of her younger sibling. The other's cheeks puff angrily like an adder.
She clenches a fist under the cushioned bar of the car seat that keeps her in place.
She's waiting for a chance with a hook.
We're on the straight stretch west of Dusty, Washington and I drop my book, lean back from the front passenger seat to lay a paw in the air between the fist and its target as middle sister lets go, leaving only blue dents where her fingernails had been.
My wife is at the wheel.
It's all for a good reason.
We're headed to the Yakima Valley's annual barrel tasting, a family affair that heralds spring in the warming valleys of central Washington.
That means wine in a variety of flavors, in bottles or boxes.
Mostly bottles.
And food, from Tabasco splat oysters floating in gritty half shells to long strands of asparagus like boiled chords of nylon rope.
Music too.
Traditionally, the weather holds, although today, the four-door-family vehicle churns through rainwater ruts that riddle the pavement of highway 272.
"Things are shaping up," I tell the woman behind the wheel as fog swirls across the road. "It could sunshine."
It's 6 a.m. and we have three hours left to drive.
Charley Waterman, the veteran writer for a gad-awful-lot of outdoor publications, did a book on hunting guns and dogs once and it was a pretty good account.
From chasing sage grouse to the story about swamp woodies, the book is no tearjerker. He pretty much got it right.
Down to the smell.
And the odor of dog vomit is best left to the imagination. The family and I though, whiff it through bites of our cold-cut sandwiches and oranges as our dog, a small pointer that prefers motoring on her own four-legs instead of the round rubber ones of the SUV that speeds us west, lies in the back cubby sick as a sailor on shore leave.
Long drives are always nice. Long drives with dogs and children are extra special.
With the windows open, rain funneling monsoon-like into the backseat, the children buttoned up in outerwear as our fingers dexterously plug our nose holes, we are flying to Zanzibar.
The Yakima Valley is agreeable this time of year, the weather always seems to break along the Columbia, the sun pops out, and the festival, with its limousines, newly waxed cars and lines of people waiting for a sip of the latest grape is especially sheik.
Thanks to the Waterman reader, I can't get my mind off the quail. They are the little guys of the California variety that flit across roads and between the hanging grape stocks practicing evasion techniques.
I want to take my dog out for some air, but she drools in her kennel dreaming of a baking soda concoction.
After a morning spent - somewhat - with Charley Waterman, I have birds and recovering bird dogs on my mind.
I settle for a wine with a dog on the label.
It isn't a Washington wine though.
At one stop, as a group of quail scamper between the glistening wheels of roadsters and coups, I eloquently explain the virtues of Idaho to a man from the coast. He drove to the tasting in a little convertible with what looked like a silver peace sign on the curve of the hood, but he wasn't convinced.
Then the Hells Canyon Retriever Red mad a fan of him and he tottered after me asking for a story from the Gem state.
Where the heck's Hell's Canyon.
Chukar country, I said.
He took a sip of the Retriever Red and I could see it increase his appreciation of fine hunting dogs.
(2000)


Where I live

My best friend Honer's dad once said that he preferred corpulent women over those who weren't, because they provided shade in the summer and warmth in the winter.
He didn't use the word corpulent, though, because it wasn't part of his vocabulary.
Shorter words, with fewer syllables suited him better.
Such was the palaver of Podunkville where I was raised, mostly, with little adult supervision until I left.
It was a place where 14 year olds ventured into the woods in the fall with .30 caliber rifles and the tinking of shells in the pockets of their orange coats.
When they came back out they dragged a deer, or their feet depending on their aim, or instinct.
The ritual wasn't gender specific.
As they grew, my peers underwent a rite that included cars or pickup trucks made loud by the lack of a good exhaust. It included a basic knowledge of hand tools too.
They busted knuckles in the bad light while lying under a car on the cement twisting a rusted starter bolt, but the calluses they got weren't unique to their skin.
They could look unblinking while a cow bore a stillborn calf, and still drink milk after a day spent de-horning steers or castrating sheep.
In a word, they grew tough and at odds with urban sensitivities.
As an 18-year-old Honer's dad had battled icy storms and the enemy in the Korea, he drank government-issue booze and smoked government issue cigarettes, until he was shipped home in one piece more or less.
He drank and smoked much later, too, and he taught me the little I know about fishing.
One time a preacher instead of showing empathy, chastised him before the congregation for the drunkenness he was prone to, and I never went to that church again.
Neither did he.
Everybody knows there's good and bad out here, but the pitiless can't tell the difference.
When I left that place, I didn't go far.
Like a linebacker, I moved west and east pretty much along the same latitude.
Honer and his dad stayed put.
I haven't seen them in a while but I know they are still there, along Podunk crossroads somewhere with a few others who snuck out of the hollers to wet a line.
They're wearing snowmobile suits, sitting on lawn chairs maybe, on the bank of the river where we often watched our bobbers while fishing for spring crappies. We made wisecracks about jobs, our intimate habits, the stereotypes surrounding our own ancestry.
"Waddya call a Lutheran with a cough?"
"Choral director."
Like tattoos made with Bobbie pins in the dim light of a logging camp trailer, what I learned young stuck.
It included reserving the harshest criticism for oneself because, like one of Andre Gide's character said, "But I fear there are few among us today who would be bold enough to recognize their own features in (this) tale."
(2001)

Boots and old baggage

In winter, I preferred Bunny Boots.
They were made with great helpings of white felt, had canvas straps, brass buckles and no tread so they were slippery, but dashing.
They were warm too.
I had my first and only pair as a 9-year-old and walked to Russ Pascuzzi's 76 Station one winter day with a metal gasoline can for the Ski-Doo.
Gasoline, I think, cost 80 cents a gallon but I can't remember. I was concentrating on the walk.
The buckles on Bunny Boots, at least the ones I had, made a jingling sound that attracted dogs. Sleeping dogs perked their heads up like deer when they heard you jingle past. Like deer whiffing gun oil was they grazed in the tall grass by the river.
Lacking the fleeing instinct of cud-chewing ungulates though, the schnauzers and mistreated spaniels, and occasional white-fanged Chesapeake sensed my vulnerability as I teetered gingerly down the icy street toward my neighborhood with a gallon can full of gasoline in my arms like a basket of eggs, wearing boots that afforded no traction on snow and ice.
The gas sloshed a little, and dripped, and I leaned this way and that, careful not to reveal misgivings.
Dogs can sense that. And then where are you?
If you're wearing Bunnies, you're crambling haphazardly down the street ahead of a pack a gritty mutts, bumping into mailboxes, spilling mixed gas on the front of your snowmobile suit.
My pal, Honer told me time and again to bag the Bunny Boots.
"Forget 'em," he said. "I'll take my pac boots over 'dem Bunnies any day.
"Besides, they look like loaves of bread."
And Honer was right.
After running through a neighbor's corral to cover my scent after a particularly noxious, blind, dachshund chased me and my jingling boots, the Bunnies took on a tawny cast like baked bread.
Honer's pacs - Sorels really - were made of rubber. They were quiet. They had leather up top and the felt was inside where it belonged.
They didn't slip too much on ice.
Despite conceding that Sorels might be slightly more practical than my white felt boots, for several winters I walked with a certain smugness passed snoozing dogs to Russ Pascuzzi's gas station with duct tape wrapped around the buckles of my Bunnies to keep them from jangling.
Then I outgrew the boots. And I never found a pair to replace the ones my mother hauled to the church rummage sale one July.
It doesn't matter anymore.
Bunnies were a rare item even then. They were popularized during the Korean War, so now a'days you might find a mismatched pair at Sal's Surplus behind the case of chunky bean and chicken MREs down aisle 12.
Honer, too, outgrew his Sorels.
They were the boots he slipped off one clear winter morning as the moon hung like a frozen melon in a river oak.
He walked to his deer stand in his socks, carrying his pacs because they made too much noise in the sub-zero snow.
He shot a 9x7 swamp buck that morning and the mounted deer head hung in his bedroom long after the Sorels, that he outgrew, were tossed out.
Those boots too are obsolete. The Canadian company quit the business.
These days winter boots come in a variety of colors and soles. Some jingle, some squeak, some emit atomized scents that attract rutting bucks and others are self cleaning like Whirlpool ovens.
If you asked Honer, though, he'd probably just as soon have his old Sorels back.
But, I can't say I miss those Bunnies.
(2002)
Your team didn't make it to the Super Bowl? Nuts.

While Tennessee romped Jacksonville and St. Louis tip-toed past Tampa Bay, I was in the woods collecting pine nuts.
We all have our little secrets.
Al Gore has his Occidental Petroleum proceeds and a blister on his green thumb, Georger Bush has his elite, and highly secret, Skull and Bone society from his days as a Yale bench-warmer.
I have a small Snoopy pail and a plastic hand trowel.
I had planned a sort of Hardy Boys' day, and had packed for it. My favored Vikings, the team of next century, had lost last week, and I was in no mood for football.
Inside my canvas back pack was a venison sausage sandwich on pumpernickel, a pair of binoculars and an extra brick of .22 shells in case I got ambushed by a regiment of snowshoe hare.
I packed my rim-fire Ruger with which I can actually hit the inside of a barn, and waxed the runners on a pair of bear claw snowshoes until my wife said it's skis you're supposed to wax, not Tubbs. Then I yarded my woolen bibs up with a small block that I hung from a rafter and stepped into them. These things are rustic, I moaned, as I tried to walk, but my legs wouldn't move.
Those Canadians don't skimp on fabric, eh?
I decided against the pants. My gray wool long johns are plenty warm and they have that wind flap in case things get too steamy.
I was set.
When I got where I wanted to be, the Titans were already making the Jaguars look bad, according to a guy on the radio.
I parked under a tree and looked in the back seat for something that wasn't there.
I admit, I felt a little ashamed just then, and laughed quietly to myself as if there was nothing the matter - just in case someone was about who knew I had forgotten my back pack.
On the seat under a glob of spent kids' clothes, though, was a Snoopy bucket. A red plastic trowel was wedged into the seat crack. In a slot on the passenger's door, I found a booklet on pine nuts meant for elementary students.
Close enough.
The booklet had a name on it. The author was E. Gibbons.
To many people of my generation, Ewell Gibbons was not only an old guy with bad teeth and a young wife, he was a TV staple - like Happy Days. Something he once said made me take notice. I'll never forget it.
He said, "Mmm, these pine nuts taste just like humphfm uff. Crunch. Crunch."
At least that is how I remember it.
In all those years since seeing Ewell on the TV screen, I had never once ventured to test his words.
Today, I would, I decided.
By the time St. Louis fans were nervously nipping at their cuticles, I had already picked several bucket loads of pine nuts and was still at it.
Kneeling in shrubbery near a well-used Forest Service road in my long johns and calf-high boots, lustily stabbing at the frozen ground, I was feeling earthy.
When I got home it wasn't quite dark. The family was in the kitchen contemplating supper.
I barged into the door with the Snoopy pail and a garbage sack I had filled with forest's bounty and announced that supper was on me.
Yup, I said, I've been out foraging. Then I dumped the bag's contents onto the dinner table. A small shrew jumped to the floor and ran behind the bookcase, and some dirt and duff trickled onto the carpet.
The pine nuts glistened.
What is it? My oldest daughter asked with a grimace that I understood to be vibrant curiosity.
What does it look like? I replied.
About an hour later the championship scores were in, but I didn't care. Gore and Bush were named as the winners in the Iowa Caucus, but I was too stuffed from the hotdogs and that Vinni's pizza I had found in the freezer, to take notice.
The day had been a blessing. A piece of life's puzzle had been soundly snapped into place. I had learned that humility is a virtue when it comes to football and buttons missing from the back flaps of long johns. And, I had learned that Ewell - the man we had loved to mock as kids - had been right after all. Pine nuts do taste like humpfhm uff. Crunch. Crunch.

These columns first appeared in the St. Maries Gazette Record

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Little bit of family


It's never too early to backlash, or too late to unwind (below). Livvy at 2 works the reel.



Lake Vermilion (below), the bass rock where I smacked many smallmouth as a boy in the late evening. Birch Island pokes up from Big Bay behind my daughter, Izzy, who blows with her rag doll against a sky as blue as Aqua Velva (yep). Canada is in the background, but before then, Bass Bay, where I saw my first wolf smattered against the spring ground its skull caved in by a moose kick.




My daughter Gitta (below) and her little sis Livvy wading into a sunset (Northern Minnesota).





This is where I caught that big brown. That's what I told them (below). He was this big, but that was long ago.
They didn't believe me.
At least they contemplated the notion that, yes, perhaps pops, when he learned to be a river guide, did catch a big, yellow-sided trout that was as long as the space between his outstretched hands.
Yellowstone River east of Big Timber.



That's the family album. At least in 2005.

And in s.s.s.s.s.s Sepia, nonetheless.

(see more on my Facebook page)

Have a good day.

Photos by Ralph Bartholdt/Skookum Photography



Monday, November 16, 2009

HWY 200: Roadside attractions

Ralph Bartholdt/Skookum Photography

Pend Oreille Lake marsh at low water east of Sandpoint, Idaho


Ralph Bartholdt/Skookum Photography


Memorial along Hwy 200 heading toward Clark Fork, Idaho





Friday, November 13, 2009

Over the next rise

Ralph Bartholdt/Skookum Photography


Grouse and whitetail deer habitat mix in North Idaho's Selkirk foothills.